BOSANSKA KRUPA city guide

I’m a fan, to say the least. Filed under ‘small but perfectly formed’, Bosanska Krupa has plenty to savour, both in its small centre and the surrounding area. Want visual proof of Bosnia’s religious diversity? Nip into the centre and try to snap a photo of Bosanska Krupa’s Catholic and Orthodox churches with the minaret of its City Mosque in the background, all with the remains of its medieval fortress up above. The town is built on both sides of the Una, with quaint cabins on stilts providing a vibrant contrast on the water. The wider municipality is every bit as interesting, with Muslim reformists and 20th-century writers among its alumni, not to mention the stunning location of Bosanska Otoka’s mosque, one that is right up there on the list of the country’s prettiest. Bosanska Krupa’s one flaw is its lack of facilities, but who needs fancy restaurants when you can gawp at the river and wander around the Green Islands?

TRANSPORT

Bosanska Krupa bus station (Generala Mirsada Sedića, +387 37 474 280) is a short walk from the town centre and ticks most of the boxes needed for a small town station. Sure, info isn’t forthcoming, the ticket office staff don’t speak much English, the toilet is locked and there is no cafe, but what do you want me to tell you? Bosanska Krupa is small, so if you need a coffee, you can walk two minutes and get one. Bosanska Krupa has frequent daily connections with Bihać, Bužim, and Banja Luka, and one bus daily to Tuzla (via Sanski Most), Sarajevo (which leaves at 05:00 in the morning)

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Krupa Fortress

Smack-bang in the heart of Bosanska Krupa is its eponymous 13th-century fortress, or at least the ruins of it. The whole ‘ruins’ thing means there isn’t a whole lot to check out, but isn’t that how it should be with ruins? This is about history, not tales today. The views of the river and stilt-houses are delightful, and that is reason enough to wander up here when in town. The Ottomans took the fortress in the 16th century and developed Bosanska Krupa around it, and it was a vital stronghold for their regional ambitions. The remains of the fortress sit on a rocky hillock in the town centre, with the čaršija below and the river stretching out to the right. I could do without the big BOSANSKA KRUPA lettering, but who am I to judge?

Religious Buildings in the Centre

This sort of image is often talked about in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but nowhere is the co-existence of three different faiths more visually apparent than in Bosanska Krupa. Stand in the centre of town, and you’ll find the Temple of the Nativity of the Most Holy Mother of God (Orthodox) and the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Catholic) in front of you, with the minaret of the town’s main mosque (Patriotske lige 28) just in the background. The view is even more impressive from the fortress. Just watch out for the dogs that may or may not be sleeping in front of the Orthodox Church.

Zeleni Otoci

Green Islands, if your Bosnian isn’t up to scratch (mine certainly isn’t). This is the oasis in the centre of Bosanska Krupa, the slice of magic that cements its position in my personal top three of ‘Prettiest Towns in Bosnia and Herzegovina’. I’m going to go ahead and say that this is the most beautiful town centre park in the country too. You don’t need me to explain it; just wander around and soak it all in. There are loads of benches to stop and admire the majesty and a handful of cafes for liquid refreshment.

Bosanska Otoka

Bosanska Otoka is a friendly town in its own right, but its main attraction has nothing to do with coffee and conversation. 11km from Bosanska Krupa, Bosanska Otoka is home to one of the most idyllic mosques in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The Gradska Džamija shimmers peacefully on a small island in the Una, and many believe it is the only mosque in Europe located on a riverside islet, although I feel like this can’t be true. The mosque is an exercise in symbolism and symmetry, with 153 steps in the minaret paying homage to the 153 who died defending the town during the war. The interior is lit with 153 bulbs, continuing the theme. Frequent buses connect Bosanska Krupa and Bosanska Otoka throughout the day.

Cultural Centre

In keeping with the general beauty of the town, Bosanska Krupa’s Cultural Centre is a gorgeous structure. There’s a hint of the Ancient Athens about it all, lofty praise but not particularly out of step, and I’d wager that this is one of the most aesthetically pleasing cultural centres in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The building was constructed in 1897 using stone blocks carved from nearby Grmeč, an epic-enough description for a gorgeous place. Modern art rules the roost behind the doors, with frequent events for art lovers and the curious throughout the year. The centre houses the extensive Boško Karanović collection, the Krupa-born artist who was at the forefront of the graphics revolution in Yugoslavia. There is a bust of Safet Kapić outside, paying tribute to the local philosopher who was murdered at Jasenovac in 1942. The Titanic Memorial is also nearby. Trg Avde Ćuka, +387 37 471 693, 07:30 - 16:00. Closed weekends.

Titanic Memorial

The Titanic remains the most famous ship in modern history, and its fatal collision with an iceberg en route from Southampton to New York has been immortalised in movies, books, monuments and memes the world over. One such memorial sits next to the Cultural Centre in Bosanska Krupa, commemorating four men from this part of the world who lost their lives on April 15, 1912. The men were travelling to Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, leaving their homeland behind to join a growing Bosnian community there, searching for a better life. Their names were Ejdo Rekić, Husein Sivić, Ćerim Balkić and Redžo Delalić. The stone behind the plaque resembles an iceberg, and I certainly hope that was intentional. Trg Avde Ćuka

Vrelo Krušnice

Just when you thought Bosanska Krupa couldn’t provide any more natural majesty, you arrive at the spring of the Krušnica River, which is an absolute delight. The area is all flowing rivers, crashing waterfalls, dense green and languid charm, a place that remains relatively untouched and free of chaos outside of the natural chaos that abounds. Nature is a sort of chaos, after all. To get to Krušnica, head 4 miles south of town. You can walk but there are plenty of gradients to conquer, so best off getting a taxi or getting behind the wheel yourself.

Mills on the Una

Surprisingly, there is little information about these houses on stilts in Bosanska Krupa, but that might be for the best. As it is, the houses (I presume they are houses) sit peacefully on the river, providing visitors and locals with some of the best framing in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The wooden cabins don’t seem to serve any real function in the modern age outside of aesthetics, but they were once the centre of the community, mills and working spots for labour and love. They were built to exist in harmony with the natural surroundings, which helps explain the aesthetic serenity they exude today. Actually, that doesn’t need to be explained. Hard work and authentic architecture are always the way to go, and this is the best example of that in the country.

Active Bosanska Krupa

Bosanska Krupa is a fabulous place for adventure tourists, with most disciplines getting love and attention. I don’t want to repeat myself, but this is the most beautiful part of the country, so if you want to cycle, hike, fish, raft, kayak and all the rest, you won’t find a more aesthetically pleasing spot. All of the above are available, along with mountaineering, canoeing, quad rides, boat excursions and much, much more. Contact the tourist office for more information, or ask at your hotel.

Džemaludin Čaušević Birthhouse

I once drank coffee with Džemaludin Čaušević’s great-nephew and then visited the house of the great man, and that is almost certainly my geekiest BiH memory. Džemaludin Čaušević was (long story short) an early 20th-century educator, reformer, journalist and very important man here, the leader of Yugoslavia’s Muslims at a most turbulent time. As far as 20th-century Bosnians go, Čaušević is at the top table. He was born in a tiny village called Arapuša, 15km into the hills east of BK. It isn’t the easiest to get to (you’ll need a car), but it is a must for anyone genuinely interested in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Arapuša

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

I have always found Bosanska Krupa lacking on the food and drink front, although maybe that says more about me than the town. Caffe Gold is a charming spot serving decent coffee in delightful surroundings with spotty WiFi, while the food and drink options at Eki (Patriotske lige, +387 37 473 001) hit the spot. E4 (Pazadžik 23, +387 61 921 142) is nearby and is a pleasant spot for a cup of coffee. Makaba (Unska 15, +387 37 489 819) has a lovely setting when open. There are a couple of cafes in Zeleni Otoci that are a delightful stop while wandering the green magic, particularly if you enjoy a beer in the sun surrounded by water and trees. Who doesn’t love that? Zlatna Nit (Vranjska bb, +387 62 959 938) is a great traditional option outside of the town centre.

SLEEPING

As with the food and drink, Bosanska Krupa proper is lacking on the accommodation front. Eki (Patriotske lige, +387 37 473 001) is friendly and has a charming old-fashioned retro sort of vibe, with an excellent location and a decent cafe underneath. If you don’t mind staying out of town, Zlatna Nit (Vranjska bb, +387 62 959 938) is 4km away and serves splendid serenity in gorgeous surroundings, with a more than decent restaurant for meal times. It also has a spa, which seals the deal as far as I’m concerned.

BOSANSKA KRUPA