BOSANSKI PETROVAC city guide

Located in the Petrovac field, Bosanski Petrovac is a curious place. In a way, it feels forgotten, overshadowed by more illustrious places in the Una-Sana canton, struggling to adapt to the changing times and a population decimated by the lure of the nearby European Union. All of that is noise, of course, because Bosanski Petrovac is a place of history and heritage, surrounded by stunning mountains and some of the most imposing scenery in the country. It is a relatively young urban settlement by comparison to many others in the area, although people have set up camp in these parts since forever. The Ottomans developed the urban settlement itself, but it is the Partisans with whom Bosanski Petrovac is most closely linked. The municipality played a vital role in the fight against fascism, with Tito’s command nestled in these parts for a period during the war. Today, Bosanski Petrovac is trying to find its way, but there is hope. This is one of the sunniest municipalities in the country, and the possibilities for solar power are a clear indication of a bright future. Also, damn good carpets. If you’re looking for a carpet, head to Bosanski Petrovac.

TRANSPORT

Not a huge amount to cover here, as Bosanski Petrovac’s bus station (+387 37 881 111) is a small cabin with a shaded waiting area. The ticket office is friendly, the timetable isn’t entirely accurate but the staff are happy to answer questions. The cafe across the road does a decent espresso, and that’s your lot. Bosanski Petrovac has connections to Bihać, Banja Luka, Drvar and Sarajevo.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Tito’s Train in Oštrelj

While the train Tito stayed in was destroyed in World War II, let’s not let that get in the way of a vital piece of transport and history. For a short while, the Free Republic of Bihać was the only liberated region on the continent, making this the only train in Europe that wasn’t under Nazi occupation, which is kind of a big deal. Located in the trees in Oštrelj (a village on the road between Bosanski Petrovac and Drvar), Tito’s Train has been restored as part of the broader range of Partisan heritage throughout BiH. The German-produced train (oh, the irony) arrived in the area in the early 20th century to function on the growing number of railways that revitalised the economy in NW Bosnia. Eventually, the winding tale leads to Tito and his inner circle, who used the locomotives and wagons as meeting places and sleeping spots as they made plans to fight back against fascism. Oštrelj

Skender Kulenović Memorial Library

History is littered with talented families, and the Kulenović clan is among the most prodigious in the annals of Bosno time. Muzafer was an athlete, Muhamed was an artist, but it is the spectre of writer, poet, dramatist and Partisan Skender Kulenović that looms largest. Born in Bosanski Petrovac, Skender had what can only be described as a Hella Yugo Life, fighting tooth and nail as a Partisan before being fully committed to creativity in post-war Yugoslavia. A library memorial is the best type of memorial, and the Skender Kulenović Memorial Library is one of the best. The ground floor is the library (a normal, functioning library), while the upstairs is given over to the life and times of the man himself, from childhood to posthumous adoration. The library is open during the week from 7am to 3.30pm, so nip in and ask about seeing the upstairs portion. Everything is in Bosnian, but the artefacts speak for themselves. +387 37 881 247

City Mosque

The central mosque in Bosanski Petrovac straddles the line between whimsical and imposing, although the surrounding trees and shade take the edge off the latter. I believe it was constructed in 2003, but I can’t be entirely sure about that. It has been somewhat plagued with financial issues for decades. Things seem to be running smoothly today, so let’s not jinx that. The architecture is modernist, with spaceship-style windows around the angular building, from which the dome and minaret rise with the usual grace. Gradski Park

Jovan Bijelić Collection

Bosanski Petrovac has an impressive history of creativity, and Jovan Bijelić is an integral part of that story. Born in nearby Revenik (a couple of miles from Bosanski Petrovac), Bijelić developed into one of the most important expressionist painters in Yugoslavia, exhibiting his works around the country and influencing a new generation of artists as he did. While a selection of his work can be seen in the Una-Sana Canton Museum in Bihać, this collection in Bosanski Petrovac is the main event, with around 20 of his finest pieces on display for all to see. You might need to call ahead to visit, but it is worth it.

Čardaklije

Just 15 minutes north of Bosanski Petrovac, Čardaklije is another Bosnian etno-selo that gets it right. The primary reason for this is the commitment to authenticity, eschewing excess in favour of history and heritage, embracing the norms of life in these parts as opposed to an idealised vision of traditional life. This ain’t Instagram, folks, this is history. Also, there are a lot of Bosnian horses here, which is excellent news, and plenty of other noisy farm animals earning their keep. The food in the restaurant is fantastic, proving once more that traditional Bosnian dishes are best enjoyed in rustic settings free of 21st-century trappings. The cottages are delightful; you can even get your hands dirty and help out on the farm if you’re into that sort of thing. Vrtoče, +387 66 810 000

Vrtoče Monument

That’ll be the Memorial Park to Fallen Soldiers and Victims of the National Liberation War, to you. Completed in 1971, this monument in Vrtoče is another in the region’s long line of curious World War II memorials. Much like many of the others, the symbolism is relatively clear, with the three fins representing the main ethnic groups in Bosnia and Herzegovina, coming together to a star representing the Yugoslav state. Unlike many memorials, this one is pretty easy to find; it sits on the side of the road between Bihać and Bosanski Petrovac, 12 miles or so from the latter. The park was damaged in the ‘90s but comprehensively restored in 2011, and now attracts many visitors, both knowing and new. Vrtoče

Cathedral of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul

It never ceases to amaze me how often you come across assumedly innocuous buildings that are delightfully aesthetic here. Another such charmer is the main Orthodox Church in Bosanski Petrovac, the Cathedral of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, with its light blue trim perfectly balanced around the white mass of the structure. There’s something immensely pleasing about the combination. Constructed in 1890 and consecrated a year later, the church was badly damaged by the Nazis in World War II. Restoration during Yugoslavia was a slow process, but it was completed in 1994, just in time for the Bosnian Army to damage it once more. By the second decade of the 21st century, the re-restoration was complete, giving us the gorgeous structure we have today. Fun fact for Aussies: an icon of the Holy Trinity was sent here by Serbs living in Australia. Narodnih Heroja bb

Bjelaj Stari Grad

The remains of a medieval fortress will always grab a few eyes, and lovers of all things old and ruined best make a beeline for Bjelaj, 12 miles or so northwest of Bosanski Petrovac. First mentioned in 1495, the Ottomans conquered the fortress around 40 years later, but little remains of the original or the extension today. The medieval portion is undoubtedly in better condition, and the 16m high tower is surprisingly robust, with only bits of wall left from the Ottoman renovation project. Bjelaj itself is a small village of fewer than 100 people, although it did give the world popular children’s writer Ahmet Hromadžić, who passed away in 2003. You can learn more about his works at the Skender Kulenović Library in town.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

If you’re hankering for some caffeine in Bosanski Petrovac, Caffe Stanica and Stari Hotel (+387 37 881 109) are your best options. Stari Hotel is also a decent food option (with its own sort of functioning butchery), while Casablanca (+387 63 835 761) is another option for food and drink. Motel 9 (AVNOJ-a, +387 37 881 901) is probably the finest option in town (especially when it comes to lamb), while Čardaklije (Vrtoče, +387 66 810 000) is obviously the best place for everything. Sleeping, eating, drinking, it gets a thumbs up for everything.

SLEEPING

© Seoska domaćinstvo Čardaklije // Facebook.com

Only two places are worth mentioning in this section, but both are excellent. Quality over quantity, and all that jazz. Motel 9 (AVNOJ-a, +387 37 881 901) is on the edge of town and offers comfortable rooms to go with its popular dishes and massages (you’ll have to enquire about those), while Čardaklije (Vrtoče, +387 66 810 000) is an absolute must if you’re okay with staying further afield. A good etno-selo is to be celebrated, and Čardaklije is very much in that boat, provided you are okay with honking geese.

BOSANSKI PETROVAC