SANSKI MOST city guide — John W Bills

A city of rivers and flowers, Sanski Most is extremely Bosnian. I don’t really know what I mean by that, but you might feel it when you visit. The town has the country’s only four-minaret mosque, and the centre goes about its business in a workmanlike fashion, stopping every now and then to marvel at the majestic Sana River. Sanski Most actually sits on nine rivers, which must be some sort of record. It has Yugoslav-era monuments, friendly cafes, brutal recent history and an almost impressive lack of accommodation facilities, but it is worth exploring the surrounding nature and (particularly) the delightful Bliha waterfall.

TRANSPORT

Sanski Most’s bus station (Bulevar VII korpusa, +387 37 686 304) is surprisingly decent, even if the staff are hit and miss. The ticket office is generally staffed, the toilet works fine, and there is a small cafe and shop for all your supply requirements. The station is a five-minute walk east of the city centre. The connections (as you can see) are pretty frustrating, with buses early in the morning or late at night. Who wants to arrive in a town after 10pm? The old train station is no longer in use, but that shouldn’t take you long to work out.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Hamza Bey Mosque

I won’t bury the lede; the Hamza Bey Mosque in Sanski Most is the only mosque in Bosnia and Herzegovina with four minarets. Prevailing wisdom suggests it was built in 1555 by the man whose name it bears, although it has been rebuilt and reconstructed several times over the centuries. The area around the mosque deserves the overused adjective ‘bustling’ at the usual times, with cafes, restaurants, shops and the rest. Organizatora Otpora

Šušnjar Spomenik Park

Sanski Most’s World War II monument sits on a small hill above the town, paying homage to lives lost in the fight against fascism in World War II. The memorial (designed by Petar Krstić) resembles a burning flame, a defiant reminder of local strength. The complex isn’t in the best condition, and graffiti covers the structure, but it remains impactful. The monument is a 15-minute walk from the bus station, including a minor gradient and a whole lot of simple living. Memorijalni Park Šušnjar

Logoraš Monument

Logoraš loosely translates as ‘camp worker’, which should give you an idea of the meaning behind this impactful statue in the town centre. With his head bowed and hands tied behind his back, the figure represents those murdered at Manjača concentration camp (near Banja Luka), but it is representative of all those who have been cruelly interned and abused at such facilities. Trg Oslobodilaca

Trg Ljiljana

Sanski Most’s main square is dominated by cars, so probably it is best to call this a roundabout. The patch of grass in the centre of it all is decorated with a giant lily, one of the many symbols of Bosnia and Herzegovina. There isn’t a whole lot to recommend, being a roundabout and all that, but you’ll almost certainly touch base here to get your bearings. Check out the Logoraš monument and other bits and pieces. Trg Ljiljana

Dabar Cave

I’m not a big cave guy, but that says more about me than the magical world of the underground. Dabar Cave is another subterranean universe, a relatively unexplored network that ebbs and flows with the weather, so use your common sense before visiting. The cave isn’t packed with stalactites and stalagmites like more famous caves, but its silence is impactful nonetheless. There are also little lakes found here and there within, and boy do they look delightful from the right angle. Donji Dabar

Bliha Falls

There is something special about the Bliha Waterfall. Bosnia and Herzegovina has plenty of cascades, but do any sit as close to the nation’s soul as this delightful stunner, 15km or so west of Sanski Most? You can answer that question however you see fit, I’m staying quiet, but even broaching the subject suggests my opinion. As I’m sure you expect, legends flow as freely here as the water, with one story suggesting that the name of the waterfall comes from a particularly gruesome story about a brother and two sisters having to repopulate the world. To visit, head towards Fajtovci. Donji Kamengrad

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Sanski Most isn’t packed with excellent food and drink options, which is a little disappointing. Retro (Hasana Kikica 2, +387 37 681 666) does a fine line in simple modern food, and there are the usual collection of cevabdžinicas dotted around town. Lovac (Prijedorska 4, +387 37 681 580) continues the Lovac trend around the country (big plates of grilled meat), and I had a friendly conversation with the waitress at Caffe Elixir (Korzo 4) upon arrival last time.

SLEEPING

Hotel Asi (Banjalučka 11, +387 37 682 666) is in the town centre but needs some TLC. Apartman Dino (Naselje Bare 5) is a friendly private option not too far from the bus station, although it can be a bit of a bugger to find initially. It took me forever, but it did lead to me getting adopted by an old woman and humbled by an 11-year-old boy, so I shouldn’t complain. Hotel Sanus looks extremely closed.

SANSKI MOST