UNA NATIONAL PARK guide

The Una is Bosnia’s most beautiful river, so does that make this the most beautiful of the country’s national parks? You can make your own mind up, although good luck resisting the sweeping charms of these 198 square kilometres. The park spreads close to Bosnia’s border with Croatia and is best known for its abundant waterfalls, from the beautifully intimidating Štrbački Buk to the intricate complex at Martin Brod. Una NP also hides fortresses, monasteries, adrenaline adventure activities and more, including a thrilling range of animals and plants. Bears? I don’t know, but I wouldn’t be shocked. Definitely boars. The central purpose of the park is to protect the Una River, and if we can celebrate it at the same time, then all is well with the world. +387 31 221 528, Nov - Feb 10:00 - 15:00, Mar 10:00 - 16:00, Apr - May 09:00 - 18:00, Jun - Aug 09:00 - 20:00, Sep 09:00 - 19:00, Oct 1-15 09:00 - 18:00, 16-31 09:00 - 17:00

TRANSPORT

© Veronika Kovalenko // Shutterstock.com

Getting to Una National Park without a car isn’t the simplest of endeavours. There are six direct buses from Bihać to Kulen Vakuf every day, although that doesn’t exactly help when it comes to exploring the magnificent waterfalls and expanses of nature here. Still, Kulen Vakuf is lovely, so hooray for that. With a car, head south from Bihać and follow the signs. Una National Park has six entrances, although Entrance 4 at Raćić is being renovated. If you don’t have your own car, your best bet is a private tour. Ask at your accommodation to see if any bargains are around.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Štrbački Buk

Una National Park seemingly presents waterfalls around every corner, but Štrbački Buk is the main event. The fundamental details set a foundation (25 metres high, the product of tectonic activity), but you know as well as I do that waterfalls are to be felt, not detailed. These falls showcase the Una River at its most spectacular, with plenty of viewing points for visitors looking to experience them without getting too wet. The waters unsurprisingly attract all sorts, from adrenaline junkies to retrospective wanderers, opposites allied in the eternal comforts inspired by onrushing water. There isn’t anything like it, really.

Martin Brod

No, it has nothing to do with a bloke called Martin. Martin Brod is named after a mythical woman called Marta, a lady who loved a man of whom her father disapproved, and you can work the rest out from there. He lived on the other side of the water, which never bodes well. One night, Marta tried to cross the river to visit her love, but the current was too strong, and she was dragged under, never to be seen again. It’s a sad story, obviously, but don’t let the tragedy detract from the marvellous network of waterfalls found in Martin Brod today. The Unac and Una rivers come together here with spectacular results, gorgeous cascades punctuated by walkways, picnic benches, mills and more, including fly fishing fun. Is fly fishing fun? You tell me.

Kulen Vakuf

Kulen Vakuf is the administrative centre of Una National Park, although such a perfunctory description is selling it somewhat short. The Ottomans called the town Džisr-i-Kebir, and the Sultan Ahmed I Mosque in Kulen Vakuf is a curious charmer with stories to tell. There are offices on the ground floor, for one, a rather unusual state of affairs for a mosque, no matter the globalisation of the genre. Kulen Vakuf has a handful of food, drink and accommodation options and is worth a stop, especially if you plan a hike up to the ruins of the Ostrovica fortress.

Rmanj Monastery

I’d build a monastery in Una National Park if I was the monastery-building type. Rmanj is a 15th-century Serbian Orthodox monastery that has seen some things, busying itself with the usual tasks before the arrival of the Ottomans saw it briefly abandoned. The Ottomans re-established it, although the tumult continued with fire after fire after fire. The tumult didn’t cease until the 21st century when the wars of the previous forced a total reconstruction that was completed in 2006. +387 37 366 047

Activities

Una National Park is an adventure wonderland with a wide range of activities for energetic visitors. Don’t forget to engage with your common sense, although that should go without saying. Don’t do anything without checking if you are allowed; always use local companies and guides when possible. Rafting, kayaking and diving are the most popular activities (a local guide is a legal requirement). Mountaineering, hiking, cycling and fishing are also commonly enjoyed. It is a national park built around the most beautiful river in the country; what did you expect?

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

A couple of eating options directly next to Štrbački Buk offer unbeatable views with your meal, with the imaginatively named Restaurant Buk (+387 63 061 044) the obvious choice. These places open and close on the regular though, so a picnic in the park is usually the best bet. Martin Brod also has a handful of options, with Lovac being another addition to the argument in favour of restaurants with that moniker. As the largest built-up area of the park, Kulen Vakuf is the place for more classical food and drink; Džisrikebir (+387 63 267 796) is a decent option. It seems as though Bistro Una is closed, which is sad news.

SLEEPING

Japodski Otoci // © HF media art // Shutterstock.com

Being a massive expanse of forests, waterfalls and rivers, there isn’t much formal accommodation here. Kulen Vakuf has a handful of apartments and villas that all follow the same standard while camping in the park is allowed at the numerous official campsites. Your best bet? Stay in nearby Japodski otoci (Račić bb, +387 63 141 414, japodskiotoci@gmail.com) or Eko Selo Natura Art (Lohovo, +387 60 31 38 767), then travel into the park during the day. I’m sorry this isn’t more help.

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