POSUŠJE city guide — John W Bills

Posušje has always held a prominent position in my mind, and I’m not entirely sure why. For years, it was one of the places that popped up when I tried to think of places I hadn’t been, so it was a mixture of excitement and sadness that I finally got to spend some time in the city. Located between Široki Brijeg and Tomislavgrad, Posušje was something of a forgotten place for centuries, a status hinted at by its name (Posušje derives from the local word for ‘drought’), although people have found a way to make a living here since the Stone Age. It has long been a place of rebellion and passion, a fiercely independent spot, a mentality influenced no doubt by its position and history. It also has lots of hills, which is bloody annoying.

TRANSPORT

There is no bus station here, which is a shame because I love bus stations. It also makes bus connections awkward, although Posušje is abysmally connected, so it doesn’t matter too much. For the record, Livno Bus stops at the roundabout by the churches, (opposite Cafe Bugatti on Ante Starčevića) on the route between Livno and Mostar. Getting here by car is the only sensible option, and all roads heading in and out are delightfully scenic.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary

Posušje’s newer Church of the Virgin Mary isn’t the prettiest, but it makes up in size what it lacks in sophistication. The massive church straddles the border between modernist and brutalist, looking not unlike the outline of a more detailed church, minus the intricacies. All of this sounds a little derisive, which isn’t entirely fair, but the potential allure of the new church is lost in its modernist flourishes. The old church next door is what we expect from such structures, after all. Still, this is the main church in town these days, the centre of social and clerical life in Posušje, and arguably its most important building. Fra Pave Šimonića, +387 39 681 052

Old Church

Partially renovated to replicate its original late 19th-century look, Posušje’s Old Church is a gorgeous building that makes its newer incarceration look somewhat soulless in comparison. The original was constructed between 1872 and 1880 under the auspices of Friar Filip Čutura, the leader of a regional uprising against the Ottoman Empire and an influential figure in late 19th century Posušje. He did a darn good job, although documents suggest the church wasn’t exactly beautiful at the time. How could it be? Posušje was an impoverished part of the world, and money was scarce. The church didn’t have a bell tower until the beginning of the 20th century, just in time for the belfry to be struck by lightning in 1905. In fact, the history of Posušje’s Old Church is one of stops and starts, of unfinished work and acute reflections of the town’s economic status. In that regard, it is a beautiful piece of work, precisely as it should be. Blidinjska

Ričina Bridge

3km from the centre of the town, the humble functionality of the Ričina Bridge is well worth the walk out to see it. The dry bed of the Ričina River underneath means the bridge doesn’t sparkle like many of its contemporaries, but that isn’t the fault of this stonework masterpiece. Not too much is known about the bridge, although most agree that it was built by local stonemasons in the 1930s and was destroyed in World War II, being rebuilt immediately following the war. It is quietly gorgeous but worryingly ignored and in need of repairs.

Ričina Stećci

Stećak lovers, you are in for a treat. A small collection of stećci stands proudly in Ričina near the eponymous bridge, but there is more to this than those celebrated on the mound. This was a stećci-rich area when the necropolis was established in the 15th century, with the intricate detailing hinting at the importance of those buried there, but many of the stećci were demolished or damaged by the building of the road. Plenty remains, both on the mound and the other side of the stream, with some dotted in the cemetery of the winsome chapel nearby.

Square of Croatian Veterans

Posušje’s main square is more of a car park than a plaza, but it sits in the city centre and does its bit as a meeting point for the town. A monument to lives lost in war stands in the square next to the city park. The square is surrounded by important buildings, including the City Hall and cultural centre. Trg Hrvatskih Branitelja

Grga Martić Statue

Born in Rastovača (formerly a village, now a suburb of Posušje), Friar Grga Martić was a hugely impactful and influential writer in 19th century Herzegovina, a prolific translator of classics and a passionate supporter of causes close to the hearts of the people. A statue of Martić stands outside the Old Church in the town centre, book in hand, working his way through yet another piece that would live long in the hearts and minds of the region. Martić spent most of this working life in Kreševo, influencing young writers like Silvije Strahomir Kranjčević.

Tribistovo Lake

Another gorgeous artificial lake in Herzegovina, Tribistovo is 10km north of town, on the road to Blidinje. Around 500 metres long and 300 metres wide, the lake was created to provide drinking water for Posušje, and its levels vary depending on the weather. The Ružički streams into the lake, creating charming cascades of cerulean shades.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

As with any town with even the slightest Croatian influence, there are cafes everywhere in Posušje. The city might have more cafes than people, although it clearly doesn’t, but that exaggeration gets the point across. Calipso (Kralja Tomislava 11, +387 39 681 162) is a popular spot in town, frequented by young people and police alike, while Petica (Fra Grga Martića 56, +387 63 412 778), Špica (Fra Grga Martića) and Centrum (Fra Grga Martića 25, +387 39 681 071) are all decent options. If you enjoy football in any way, head to Dribbling Sports Bar (Fra Petra Bakule, +387 63 633 632), a stylish place with a view of HŠK Posušje’s home turf. There is an Irish Pub (Matije Korvina) on the hill down to Motel Penava with ‘nightcap’ written all over it. Lovački Dvor (Marka Marulića 1, +387 39 680 553) continues the national theme of restaurants with ‘lovač’ in the name being excellent, while M&M (Zagrebačka) is also a more than decent option. Posušje has a lot of small grill places for fast food aficionados.

SLEEPING

Posušje isn’t overflowing with accommodation options, which isn’t all that surprising. Motel Penava (Marka Marulića, +387 63 580 580) is the best option, although it is down a big hill. Keep in mind that my interpretation of hill size may not mirror yours, but it felt pretty darn big to me. The staff are friendly and very patient. Motel Super San (Domovinskog rata 11) was under construction when I was last in town, at the top of that same hill.

POSUŠJE