ŠIROKI BRIJEG city guide

Just over the hills west of Mostar, Široki Brijeg is the beginning of a new world. Home to around 30,000 people, the city is the administrative, cultural and political centre of West Herzegovina, home to some fascinating heritage, brilliant cafes, gorgeous nature, and some of the best cornflakes chicken I have ever devoured. Stećci discoveries suggest the area was pretty darn important back in the day, although the arrival of the Ottomans in the 15th century led to it being cut off from the rest of the world. Rebellion was inevitable, and Široki Brijeg’s people have always been a little feistier than most. Also, what about the bus station, hey? More on that shortly.

TRANSPORT

Oh my, oh my, oh my, we have a contender. Široki Brijeg (Antuna Mihanovića, +387 39 706 561) bus station is one of the best in the country, maybe even the best, although it does continue the theme of new stations being the better ones. It is simple, close to the town centre and the busier streets outside, with lots of timetables, staff, a cafe and even a print shop. Fabulous, really. Široki Brijeg isn’t particularly well connected by bus (Miskić runs a few buses back and forth between Mostar daily), but that station is fabulous.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Franciscan Friary of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

When I arrived in Široki Brijeg and saw that the Franciscan Monastery was way up on a hill, I was a little apprehensive. I was tired, in my defence, and the prospect of walking up another sharp hill didn’t exactly fill me with glee. Still, I trundled up, and the monastery’s beauty made it more than worth it. The Franciscan Friary of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary is another in Bosnia and Herzegovina’s impressive roster of Franciscan monasteries, a stunning structure that is rightfully the symbol of Široki Brijeg. This baby is a special one, being the first Franciscan friary established in Herzegovina after the Ottomans destroyed all the previous ones, coming into being in 1849 and growing in influence ever since. The friary was particularly influential in educating some notable Catholics ahead of World War II, although maybe that is best forgotten. Legend has it that the friars buried old stones and faked the remains of an old church to gain Ottoman permission to build this one. Walk up the hill, soak in the views and enjoy the beauty of this place. Kardinala Alojzija Stepinca 14, +387 39 702 900

Vrelo Lištice

For whatever reason, Široki Brijeg doesn’t enter the conversation of beautiful cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina, but the delights of Vrelo Lištice and its surroundings should change that. The Lištica River once gave Široki Brijeg its name, but now it gives it a gorgeous slice of nature on which to build its future. The sources of the river are a short walk from the city centre, near the brilliant Borak restaurant, with hiking routes all around. Yes, yes, yes.

Promenade

It’s not exactly a big tourist attraction, but it’s an absolute must in Široki Brijeg, especially if the weather is good. Take your time and stroll along the promenade that connects the city centre to the road out to Borak, stopping for coffee at that place across the river. I don’t know its name, obviously, but it is bloody lovely.

Didak Buntić Statue

No, he isn’t sticking his fingers up at you. Undoubtedly, one of the great aims in life is to have a statue built in your honour, overlooking the city, and that is precisely what Didak Buntić got. Born not far from Čitluk, the friar was one of the great Franciscan educators of his time, teaching a generation of young folks in Široki Brijeg and doing more than most to open education up to the poorer villages in the area. Buntić was a teacher, but he is best remembered for his incredible work helping starving children in Herzegovina in 1917 as World War I continued to ravage supplies in this forgotten part of the world. Buntić worked tirelessly to acquire food and supplies for children here and was even able to send some to Slavonia, where life was considerably easier. It is estimated that he saved around 17,000 children at this time, but such things are difficult to put a number on. His statue stands close to the Franciscan Friary today, overlooking Široki Brijeg.

Alley of Croatian Cyrillic

10km west of Široki Brijeg, Kočerin is a hotbed of heritage and culture. The 15th-century Kočerin Tablet was discovered there, a medieval tablet inscribed with Bosnian Cyrillic using an archaic dialect, and a collection of memorials stand on the road between Kočerin and Lipovac to celebrate the tongue. The Alley of Croatian Cyrillic (Aleja Hrvatske Ćirilice) is split into five stations, each containing letters from the alphabet, using local stone for the construction. The script was used to create many significant documents in Bosnia’s history (including Ban Kulin’s famous charter), making this an extraordinary memorial. Here’s hoping I can waddle out and experience it myself sooner rather than later. Kočerin

Croatian Cultural Centre

It looks a little like a castle, but this isn’t a fortress; this is a cultural centre. The Croatian Cultural Centre (Hrvatski Kulturni Dom), to be exact, is a bombastic structure housing movies, art, performances and other expressions of creativity. Radio Široki Brijeg also has its headquarters here. Trg Gojka Šuška, +387 39 703 050

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Široki Brijeg is a decent-sized town and regional centre, so you can bet your bottom buns there are good food and drink options. Top of the tree is the fabulous Borak (Borak, +387 39 705 701), a gorgeous restaurant close to Vrelo Lištice that is an absolute dream when the weather is good. The food covers regional and international dishes, so there’s no excuse. Big Ben (Stjepana Radića, +387 63 794 362) is a vaguely British-themed pub on the walk out, although there is a more picturesque option for coffee on the side of the river by the promenade. I don’t know the name of it, which is pretty amateur hour of me, but you’ll see it. Nice place across the river as you start walking to Vrelo Listice, over a rickety iron bridge. Korzo (Trg Dr Ante Štarčevića, +387 65 626 565) is a good coffee option, as is Mexx (Stjepana Radića 18, +387 63 784 755), but it was undergoing renovations when I was last in town. There are also plenty of food and drink options in and around the industrial side of the city, which is more attractive than that suggests.

SLEEPING

Bosnia and Herzegovina loves itself a Hotel Park (Trg Dr Ante Štarčevića 4, +387 39 700 500), and Široki is no exception. The West Herzegovina entry in the Hotel Park sweepstakes is excellent, all modern facilities with a fancy restaurant and stylish cafe next door. Apartmani Magnolija (Fra. Didaka Buntića 91, +387 63 320 813) is another decent option in the city centre.

ŠIROKI BRIJEG