BREZA city guide — John W Bills

It is often said (by me) that Breza is Bosnia and Herzegovina in a nutshell. Such claims are a little shallow, in truth, more of a soundbite than something to build a case around, but I might as well try. History goes way back here, first mentioned in the 2nd century but undoubtedly older, but its fame comes from that magical combo of medieval Bosnia and 20th-century mining. Before the mining, Breza was a sparse collection of villages tied together for no reason in particular. Large-scale excavation of coal brought people, families, communities, and the town developed alongside work. We all know what happened to coal, and you can parlay those assumptions onto Breza today. But, I love it. Many towns in Bosnia and Herzegovina remind me of Wales, and Breza is right up there. The halcyon days are gone, but what remains is a heady mixture of different times that imbue the daily lives of people who are getting on with things. The nearby Podgora Mosque is one of the most delightful in the country if you need more prompting.

TRANSPORT

Breza doesn’t have a bus station of note, but buses do head here from Sarajevo throughout the day. A couple of times every hour, actually, with the buses just stopping in Breza whenever someone clangs that bell. While I understand you could have worked this out yourself, it is probably best if I put it all in here for completion.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Podgora Mosque

What a gorgeous, gorgeous setting. There is a lot of back and forth about how old the mosque in Podgora is, but such questions should fall into the ether once you arrive. The views are stunning, and the mosque is one of the most winsome in Bosnia and Herzegovina. This isn’t a big mosque by any stretch of the imagination, but the dome is perfectly formed, and the dimensions fit gorgeously with the surroundings. The prevailing opinion is that it was built five centuries ago. Time is relative. Podgora is 6km or so south of Breza, for the record. Podgora

Crkvina Antique Basilica

The history of Breza didn’t begin with the mine. Life here goes way back, and this ancient (as in, really flippin’ old) basilica is proof. It seems strange to call a significant basilica ‘hidden’, but it is, just off the road in Breza and left to mind its own business. Ruins remain, so you’ll have to do the work imagining it as a living, breathing thing, but sometimes ruins do more than you expect. Again, there is a lot of discussion about the details, but most agree that it is very old indeed. Yes, that is a technical phrase.

Church of St Barbara

St Barbara is the patron saint of miners (and chemical engineers, firework makers and lightning, among other things), and her story is a grim one. TLDR: her dad imprisoned her in a tower before personally lopping off her head. See, grim. The main church in Breza is dedicated to her, and it has plenty of stories to tell. After all, the bells predate the church itself, and a monument to miners is found outside. If you are lucky, the super-friendly priest will show you around and tell you about the place. The walls are very, very yellow. Alije Izetbegovića

Bust of Alija Sirotanovic in Breza — © John Bills

Breza Coal Mine

In a modern context, no coal mine, no Breza. The town developed dramatically in the 20th century when excavations began, and you can do your own math there regarding its current status. Still, it is a major employer in town, and you can’t tell the story of Breza without giving the mine due attention. A bust of Alija Sirotanović stands outside, paying homage to the most famous miner in Yugoslavia. Rudarska, +387 32 784 300

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Unfortunately, Breza isn’t overflowing with much on the food and drink front. Caffe Bar Retro (Alije Izetbegovića, +387 61 766 988) was bustling when I visited, but I can’t exactly vouch for it. We ate in Semizovac, for the record, but Vogošća, you don’t get to barge in on Breza’s time.

SLEEPING

There are no options. That shouldn’t be too much of an issue, as Breza is just a short dart from Sarajevo and arguably works best as a day trip. You’ll have to cover a decent chunk of ground in the day, but hey, get your buns in gear; this is travel.

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