Kakanj city guide — John W Bills

Kakanj is synonymous with industry, and while that might not appeal to most, it shouldn’t be overlooked or dismissed. Where do you think your cement comes from? Your electricity? Your smog? Okay, the last one isn’t great, but Kakanj’s industrial past informs its present, and the grounding nature of grinding work makes it one of the friendliest towns in the country. Kakanj’s industrial soul is the reason it was so crucial to the medieval Bosnian Kingdom, and the magnificent Kraljeva Sutjeska is a short taxi away from the modern centre. Is medieval history not old enough? How does the Neolithic sound? Artefacts from that time were discovered in this here lovely area, and you can learn more about the Kakanj culture at the city museum. Archaeology? Love it, mate.

TRANSPORT

The bus station in Kakanj (311. Lahke Brigade, +387 32 555 579) is old and run down, smells a bit weird and isn’t exactly flush with optimism. You can get your tickets, and there is also a little shop next to the station, but that is about it. What more do you want? There are plenty of connections to Sarajevo, Travnik, Jajce, Banja Luka and more, including Mostar. If you need the toilet, the neighbouring gas station has one, along with a cafe and the usual gas station snacks. There is also a train station, with a daily connection to Sarajevo and one to Maglaj. Kraljeva Sutjeska can only be reached by taxi, so pick one up from the bus station or call Ramiz Alagić (+387 61 703 337), a super friendly taxi driver who doesn’t speak a lick of English but knows a thing or two about Kakanj.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Kraljeva Sutjeska

It leaves me uneasy to give top billing to something 12km away from Kakanj, but Kraljeva Sutjeska isn’t your regular attraction. The Franciscan Monastery is one of the most impressive spiritual structures in Bosnia and Herzegovina, although its history is a long story of stop and go. Admittedly, fire is to blame for most of that, as the monastery and church have been pulled down numerous times. The current structure dates to the late 19th century and is stunning, but the real treasure are inside. The museum collection is one of the most extensive in the country, touching on paintings, sculptures, historical documents, textiles and more. Many influential figures of Bosnian history lived and worked here, men such as Filip Laštrić and Blaž Josić, journeying into tranquillity before getting their grind on. The museum is open on Monday, Tuesday and Friday from 9 to 12 in the morning, so time your visit for then. Kraljeva Sutjeska is actually a tiny village, with a 500+-year-old mosque (built where Mehmed the Conqueror became fascinated by an ant) and a gorgeous but dilapidated and closed school. There used to be a bus up here, but those days are long gone, so a taxi is the only option. You could walk, I guess. +387 32 771 700

Čaršija Mosque

The main mosque in the centre of Kakanj is a strange looking one, a modernist structure that eschews the comfort of traditional architecture in search of something a little more jazzy. Yeah, I’m not happy about using the word ‘jazzy’, but what’s done is done. The mosque was designed by Hamdija Salihović (and his father, for the record), and construction began before the war, only finished just before the 21st century arrived. Supposedly, the original idea was for an entire complex of buildings, but the mosque remains the only structure here. Well, that and the clock tower, which is jazzy in its own right. 7. Muslimanske Brigade

Museum of Kakanj

Located behind the city’s central mosque, the Museum of Kakanj is precisely what you’d expect such a museum to be. It tells the town’s history, from the Neolithic to the modern era, which is some heck of a journey, covering primitive (by current standards) tools to complex mining equipment and more. Call ahead to ensure the museum is open, or live on the edge and turn up. Your choice. Kakanj’s cultural centre is next to the museum, creating an impactful cultural one-two. Šehida, +387 32 771 920

Church of St Peter and St Paul

I almost lumped this town centre church into the architecture section, but that seems a little harsh. Still, the Church of St Peter and St Paul is most striking when juxtaposed with the hulking residential building behind it. This Orthodox Church is cute in its own right, all deep red with mustard flourishes (the colour, not the food). Alije Izetbegovića 63

Industry & Architecture

Modern Kakanj is defined by its relationship to industry, and the town is famous for its cement production and thermo-electricity factory, among others. That means that massive factory complexes dominate the outskirts, the air isn’t the best, and bulky concrete monoliths pack the centre, but there is something otherworldly about it all that excites me. Brutalist architecture has experienced a renaissance of sorts (at least in terms of appreciation), and you’ll find plenty of modernist marvels in the centre of Kakanj, massive buildings built to the house in the influx of workers who moved here in the 20th century.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Where to eat and drink in Kakanj? Naša Kuća in Hotel Kakanj (ul Alije Izetbegovića bb, +387 32 552 880) ticks both boxes, with views of the town from its terrace and a constant stream of Kakanjites (I don’t know what people from Kakanj are called) coming in and out. Elsewhere, Pivnica Kakanj (Alije Izetbegovića bb) is a no-frills beer option (seriously, there are zero frills, but cheap beer and simplicity always win), while Gallery Bar (Alije Izetbegovića bb, +387 61 652 791) is a decent little coffee option. Most cafes in Kakanj blend into one (from my experience). Food? Cevabdžinica Oaza (7. Muslimanske Brigade bb, +387 61 448 220) and Cevabdžinica Bosna (Alije Izetbegovića bb, +387 32 554 511) get top marks, although the no-frills thing must be reiterated.

SLEEPING

Hotel Kakanj (ul Alije Izetbegovića bb, +387 32 552 880) is in the town centre and has one of Kakanj’s best restaurants, bars, cafes and all that jazz, making it a bit of a no-brainer when choosing somewhere to stay. Several motels are also dotted around the place, but Hotel Kakanj deserves your pennies.

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