MAGLAJ city guide — John W Bills

Yeah, nice town, Maglaj. Its name loosely means “foggy,” so don’t be shocked to encounter heaps of mist when you wander its streets in the morning. It is all part of the charm, but the real value lies in its long history of Ottoman architecture, Islamic tinges and 20th-century flourishes. There is a lot to like here, and the charming area around the fortress takes much of the applause. As it should, but ignore the town centre at your own cost. Maglaj is in the very north of the Zenica-Doboj canton, closer to Doboj (16 miles) than Zenica (35 miles). Maglaj’s history makes it feel bigger than it is (fewer than 7,000 people live here today); it was first mentioned by its current name in 1408. That came in a Hungarian charter, but Maglaj was Ottoman before the end of the century. Rebuilt following the destruction of the most recent war, the mosque at the foot of the fortress is one of the most beautiful in the country. I’d be lying if I said there were no issues here (the centre is mostly closed cafes and broken shops), but don’t judge a book by its cover. For the record, I routinely judge books by their covers.

TRANSPORT

Maglaj’s bus (1. Marta, +387 32 609 430) and train station are next to each other, which is handy, and both are an easy short walk from town, depending on your preferred walking speed. I prefer a saunter, obviously, so it took me maybe 15 minutes to get from the train station to Edemus. I’m slow, what can I say. There is a daily train to and from Sarajevo that goes through Zavidovići, Žepče, Zenica, Kakanj and Visoko (and Podlugovi!), although the one departing Maglaj leaves at 06:01 in the morning. Not ideal, to say the least. The road offers more options than the rails, although don’t get overly excited. You’ll find direct buses to Zenica, Žepče, and Sarajevo. You’ll also find a cheerful woman behind the counter. If you speak an acceptable amount of Bosnian, you’ll likely have a nice chat with this bubbly bugger, which is delightful. Toilets and wifi? Hah! No chance. There is a small shop next door for travel snacks.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Maglaj Fortress

Often clouded in fog (the town is called Maglaj, don’t be shocked), you don’t need to be an urban genius or medieval warlord to understand why Maglaj Fortress sits where it does. The view stretches for miles, and the fortress holds a commanding place in the town’s geography and history, a big statement that also manages to be an understatement. The first documented reference to Maglaj was in 1408, so I’m reasonably happy with saying there was a fortress of some kind here at that point, although it was the arrival of the Ottomans (1476) that got the ball rolling. The fortress developed and grew just in time for Prince Eugene of Savoy to destroy it in 1697, going through the whole development process once more before time took over and left it to the elements. Not a whole lot remains, although the Clock Tower is every bit as delightful as clock towers tend to be, and the views are magnificent. Tvrđavska, +387 62 247 509

Kuršumlija Mosque

Hot darn, what a beautiful mosque this is. I’m not about to make some sort of official rankings, but if I did, I’d likely hurl Maglaj’s Kuršumlija Mosque in my top 5. Also known as the Jusuf-Pasha Mosque, this was Maglaj’s first mosque, and it deserves that position, shimmering brightly as the centrepiece of the town’s old quarter. Constructed in 1560, the original roof was made out of lead (hence the name), but the mosque had to be rebuilt following the destruction waged by Prince Eugene of Savoy in 1697. It has seen a fairly common sequence of ups and downs in the centuries since (strong winds damaged the minaret in 1902, for one), but today, it stands oh so proudly on the banks of the Bosna, its triple-domed portico particularly pleasing. Trg Alije Izetbegovića

Sahat Kula

I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it time and time again, but I love me a clock tower. There’s just something about them. The simplicity of the design juxtaposes beautifully with the vital role they once played, informing entire towns of when things were happening. Actually, maybe we can blame them for the entire concept of time? No, we’re not going down that road, not today, especially when we’ve got Maglaj’s Sahat Kula (clock tower) to celebrate. As with many of the towers around the country, this one is more impressive from afar, but it is the concept that strikes most. It was constructed in 1697 and is thought to be another legacy of the Uzeirbegović folks, and they’ll be happy to know that their clock was working well into the 20th century. Today? I’m not sure, but it doesn’t matter. Clock towers no longer serve their original function but remain as impressive as ever. Tvrđavska

Sanctuary of Saint Leopold Mandić

Maglaj’s Catholic Church (or sanctuary, I’m not sure) is a blocky bugger, sat peacefully on a residential street in the town centre. The Herceg Novi-born Leopold Mandić is the patron saint of people living with cancer, a nod to his own difficult life, one marked with physical maldevelopment and difficulty, although those hurdles didn’t stop him from leaving his mark on his faith. He spent most of his life in Italy, although it would be more accurate to say he spent most of his life in the confessional, spending 14 or so hours a day listening to folks pour their guts out. As mentioned, the church is big and blocky, with a fabulous fish fountain (no water) the design highlight. The sanctuary was consecrated in 1979. Ilijasa Smajlagića

Uzeirbegov Konak

Another influential building in Maglaj’s old quarter, the Uzeirbegović house goes about its business in a charming manner next to the river. This one isn’t as old as the mosque or fortress, tracing its lineage only back to the late 19th century and the desires of Salihbeg Uzeirbegović, and it stands on the border between classical Ottoman housebuilding and the Austrian influences that were to come. Sort of like when it was built, I suppose. As was the custom, the owner offered guests free food and accommodation, although this was usually only available to teachers, students, officials and the like. Mustajbega Uzeirbegovića

Delibegov Han

Another 19th-century house of respite and restoration, the Delibegov Han sits on the left bank of the Bosna and is every bit as charming as its counterpart across the water. It touches on similar architectural features, although it does so in a somewhat more restrained manner. The house was completely renovated in 2013 and is occasionally open for visitors to take a look around. Srebreničkih žrtava rata

Vali Recep Yazıcıoğlu Mosque

On the other end of town and the other end of the scale from Maglaj’s old mosque is its modern house of Islamic focus, the rather bizarre-looking Vali Recep Yazıcıoğlu Mosque. Where the Kuršumlija Mosque sparkles with restraint and care, the hulking modern mosque teeters dangerously on the edge of kitsch. It isn’t ugly, not at all, and the intricate design reveals new flourishes at every turn, but it doesn’t fit. It seems to go against what makes mosques so special. Also, it sort of looks like a spaceship. Aleja Ljiljana

Stone Monument

What is it with this canton and big balls? Maglaj’s entrant is given its own special monument outside the city hall. Founded in a tunnel in 1979, the sphere is supposed to be over 12,000 years old, which is bloody old. Viteška

Church of St Elijah the Prophet

Ol’ Elijah gets around, it seems, although he does also seem to bounce between the two major genres of Christianity. A humble church close to the Konzum supermarket and spaceship mosque, Maglaj’s Church of St Elijah the Prophet was constructed at the beginning of the 20th century to provide spiritual solace to an ever-growing parish. You see, they didn’t have their own church, so this one was built. The church was set on fire during the war and rebuilt at the beginning of the 20th century. Bosanska

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Edemus (Aleja Ljiljana bb, +387 32 609 211), Tabasco (Aleja Ljiljana, +387 32 604 455) and Riva (Asima Lošića 44, +387 32 603 435) are the best options in town on the food front, all serving up the usual combo of traditional Bosnian and international dishes at decent prices. Expect big portions. I don’t know why, but I expected Maglaj to be a little busier on the cafe front. There are many cafes here, but many of them are of the “piano stops when a newcomer walks in” variety. Or closed. Still, Time Cafe (Aleja Ljiljana) ticks whatever boxes you require, whether you nip in for a morning coffee or stop by for an evening tipple. Retro (Aleja Ljiljana, +387 60 32 70 854) looks nice also, but I’m not entirely sure if it is open. At first, it's dark, and then it's light, and then it's dark again.

SLEEPING

Hotel (or Motel?) Edemus (Aleja Ljiljana bb, +387 32 609 211) is the best option in town and covers most of the bases you’ll require. It isn’t the cheapest (97km for a standard room), but that does include a massive breakfast and some of the most comfortable hotel beds in the country. Friendly staff, too, and some pretty wacky paintings. Sjaj Apartments (Aleja Ljiljana, +387 32 609 431) are another option, although I can’t actually confirm that they are open. They advertise above Cafe Boulevard, but there didn’t seem to be a whole lot of activity when I was last there. To be fair, I was the only guest at Edemus. There appears to be a big hotel complex under construction in the centre of town called Galub (or Galus), so watch this space.

MAGLAJ