OLOVO

Welcome to the City of the Future. That’s what the sign welcoming you to Olovo says, and I’m not about to argue with signs. I can’t explain precisely why Olovo is the City of the Future, but it is a delightful little place nonetheless. There is something eminently liveable about the place. Maybe it is the clean air, or perhaps it is the bright houses and abundant playgrounds. Maybe it is because I have only ever been there in summer. Either way, Olovo seems really pleasant, even if it isn’t overflowing with tourist attractions and things to do.

TRANSPORT

Olovo’s bus station (Branilaca, +387 32 825 230) is a good one, with a working toilet and a friendly ticket counter. There is a timetable in the waiting room, but it might be wrong (it is definitely wrong). The room probably isn’t unlocked. A small shop is nearby, and the Aquaterm is right next door, making it the perfect pre-bus coffee stop. Or sauna and massage, if that is what you are doing. Olovo is on the route between Sarajevo and Tuzla.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Aquaterm Olovo

The City of the Future’s most notable feature is a spa that harks back to a different time. The bright colours of Aquaterm Olovo’s exterior suggest as much, and a quick scan of the surroundings leaves the visitor in no confusion about why a spa was built here. Mountains, clean air, and rivers all come together in Olovo, and folks have been flocking here for rejuvenation since the resort opened in 1971. Various treatments are available, and the restaurant serves up decent grub. Branilaca, +387 32 829 600

Shrine of Our Lady of Olovo

Believed to be the oldest Marian institution in the Balkans, this beautiful church in Gornje Olovo has stood on this spot since the 15th century, although it is in a perpetual state of reconstruction. Local Catholics and Muslims have been working together to rebuild it, so keep an eye on this one. The structure itself is stunning, all proud angles and subtle flourishes, with gorgeous views of Olovo down below. As you’d assume from somewhere with centuries of history, the sanctuary has stories to tell, from its collection of icons to its status as a significant regional pilgrimage spot. The latter may explain why it is up a big hill, reminding me once more to fix my ever-pathetic cardio. Gornje Olovo

Old Mosque

I’m learning to accept hills, but that doesn’t mean I’m about to stop sweating when stomping up the things. Olovo’s Old Mosque is in Gornje Olovo, a 10-minute uphill walk from the bus station, and it fits the mould expected from an old mosque on a hill. A small cemetery is next to the mosque, with one particularly interesting grave. I have no idea who is buried there, but the grave has been overgrown by bright flowers, which seems to be a work of fiction waiting to happen. The Šejh Šehid Šejh Mehmed Efendija Hafizović Tekija is nearby, another winsome construction. Gornje Olovo

City Museum

I will be honest; I have never seen this place open. There are no opening times on the door, nothing to indicate that it might be a museum other than the big MUZEJ on the wall and a collection of artefacts visible through the windows. I will assume that it tells the story of Olovo from years gone by to the years we live, although I can’t say that with absolute confidence. Hopefully, someone can clear this up for me. Nice building, though. Branilaca

Kirsehir Mosque

Another pretty mosque, the Kirsehir Mosque (also called the City Mosque) in Olovo is also under construction and is strangely large. There isn’t anything strange about a mosque being large, of course, but the first view of this structure implies a dainty place for daily worship. Get a little closer, and you’ll see how it stretches, long and flat, as opposed to tall and vast. As the name suggests, it was financed by the Turkish city of Kırşehir, best known as Earth’s geographical centre. I didn’t know that, so now I must go to Kırşehir. Thanks. Branilaca

Olovo Sebilj

I don’t mean to disappoint, but such things are inevitable. I can’t find any information about the Sebilj in Olovo. I’m not even entirely sure if it is a Sebilj. It certainly looks like one, and that is enough for me. What’s most compelling at this Sebilj-like structure are the winsome buildings around, traditional structures embellished by yellow, green and orange flourishes, giving new light to a small square in the heart of town. Well, a car park, not a square, but I’m taking the poetic licence to the moon. The Municipal Court is next to the Sebilj, although that isn’t quite as fun to think about.

Zeleni Vir

When the sun is shining (believe me, it shines like a mofo in summer), get your buns to Zeleni Vir. 3km from the centre of Olovo, Zeleni Vir is a riverside resort with food, drink, relaxation and splashing as far as the eye can see, although be aware that I’m using that figuratively, not literally. Either way, it is a great way to while away a summer day with good food, good drinks and good people.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Wang dang doggy at the top of town, Behar (Branilaća +387 32 826 735) is a ćevabdžinica that doesn’t mess about, serving quality ćevapi in friendly surroundings. The town centre has a few cafes worth stopping in, with Azzaro (Branilaca, +387 61 853 692) at the top of the table. Oaza (Bosanska, +387 32 826 500) usually has dudes drinking beer outside, which is generally a good sign. The spa also serves food throughout the day, no matter the level of your ailments.

SLEEPING

Oh, how I wish I could recommend the Stari Hotel in the town centre, but that place is very, very closed. A few private apartments are dotted around, while accommodation is available at Aquaterm (Branilaca, +387 32 829 600). I’m not sure how I feel about recommending a stay at a rehabilitation centre; it feels a little off. My recommendation, not Aquaterm; that place is more than decent.