VAREŠ
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VAREŠ
A land of kings and miners, Vareš is another town in Bosnia’s industrial heart that is at a crossroads. No, I’m not talking about the tired meeting of cultures crossroads; I’m talking about an actual thing, a point in history where either a future will be established or the town will accept nostalgia as its life force. Vareš is a town of great history (Bosnia’s oldest preserved Catholic Church, a rich roster of creatives, medieval Bosnia’s headquarters), but it is the 20th century that dominates. Industry developed the town, bringing jobs and prosperity, but industry is not eternal. Today, Vareš struggles with its legacy. It isn’t a beautiful town (saying otherwise would be naive), but it is packed with curiosities and an undeniable sense of charm. Bobovac is nearby, the centre of Bosnia’s medieval kingdom, Tvrtko’s most important fortress and the key to controlling this part of the world in the 15th century. It is a must, dear reader.
TRANSPORT
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Don’t be fooled by the signs for a bus station in Vareš; this ‘station’ is on the side of the road. Not that it matters, you can’t really miss a bus, can you? Buses to and from Sarajevo depart and arrive every couple of hours and take about 90 minutes.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
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Bobovac
Okay, I’m going to come right out and say it. Bobovac is a top-tier spot in Bosnia and Herzegovina, and anyone with a rudimentary interest in the country should pay it a visit. Why? Well, this was the medieval seat of the Bosnian Kingdom, the spot from which decisions were made when Bosnia was at its political peak. Also, those views! Blimey! Constructed in the middle of the 14th century, little is left of Bobovac except for memory and magic, but that is what we want from our medieval fortresses. It takes a bit of walking to get here, but it is worth every step. The remains of Bobovac are 20km from Vareš, near the villages of Mijakovići and Dragovići.
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Lake Smreka
Walk out of the city toward Sarajevo, and you’ll encounter a magical phenomenon. Lake Smreka (or Nula) appeared seemingly out of nowhere in the ‘90s, emerging from the surface burrow of the Smreka iron ore mine and becoming the most enormous well of drinking water in the country. A small stream filled the pit with groundwater, and the rest is history. Gorgeous, tranquil history.
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Rudar Monument
The history of Vareš is tied to the history of extracting resources from its surroundings, so it is only fitting that the main monument in town is dedicated to the miner. The Rudar Monument is at the entrance to the town centre and showcases a typically stern-looking chap backed by machinery. The monument was erected in 1958 and was created by Croatian sculptor Marijan Kocković.
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Oćevija
17k or so east of Vareš, the small village of Oćevija is all about tradition. In this instance, the tradition is blacksmithing, and centuries of tradition and technique march on at three forges here. Jozeljić (+387 61 186 785) is the best example; it is best to call ahead before visiting. See the masters in action, and take a moment to appreciate the magic of old techniques. Buy a souvenir, too; it is the least you can do.
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Church of St Michael
Churches in Bosnia and Herzegovina don’t come much older than this. That is literally true, as the Church of St. Michael in Vareš is thought to be the oldest preserved Catholic Church in the country. This 16th-century charmer manages to be a little hidden (behind the much larger Catholic Church in the centre of town), but it is an absolute must. The ceiling is gorgeous, the church is packed with curiosities, and yes, that is an actual human skull. Ask at the neighbouring church for the massive key.
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Old Architecture
Okay, ‘old architecture’ is a cop-out of a title, but this is architecture that is old, so what more do you want from me? These beautiful houses were built according to tradition in neighbourhoods named after the families that lived there, families with blacksmiths and foundry workers at the head. The houses are remarkably well-preserved despite the tumult of history, and this area is objectively the prettiest part of Vareš.
BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES
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Vareš has lost a considerable amount of its population over the last 30 years, which has been predictably damaging to the brews, booze and bites scene. Restoran Mlin (Novakovići bb, +387 61 771 583) is the best option in town (Tuesday is pizza night), although anyone in search of a quick ćevapi fix could do worse than heading to Parić (next to the mosque in the town centre, +387 32 843 480). As for cafes, City Bar (Čaršija, +387 63 393 133), Cotton Club (Čaršija) and Konoba (Put Mira 33, +387 62 951 180) all tick the boxes you desire.
SLEEPING
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What was once a decaying building is now a darling restaurant and hotel in town. Restoran Mlin (Novakovići bb, +387 61 771 583) is at the top of the Vareš tree, with a great range of accommodation options (apartment, standard rooms, hostel-style dorms), excellent food and a brilliant location. No, the name (‘Mlin’ is Bosnian for ‘mill’) isn’t a gimmick; you’ll find a mill here. Be sure to book ahead in summer, and feel free to ask about possible tours to Bobovac, Oćevija and more.
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