VISOKO
© John Bills
Visoko, what have you done? As the old saying goes, you can’t vomit the apple up. If you open Pandora’s box, the lid isn’t one of these new-fangled resealable buggers. Visoko is an essential place in the long and storied history of Bosnia and Herzegovina, but that proud history has since been obliterated in the face of international curiosity about hills that look like pyramids. Is it worth it? I am not qualified to answer that question, but I’m pessimistic. The pyramids are good for jobs and attention, but what of Visoko’s historical heritage? John, calm down. That heritage survived centuries of oppression and attack; it will survive your pessimism. History goes way back in these parts, but Visoko came into its own during the medieval Bosnian Kingdom, when it was one of the state’s most important political, cultural and commercial centres. The Ottomans (Ajas Pasha in particular) built a functioning society, the Austrians almost burned the whole place to the ground, and Yugoslavia brought textile and leather production and all the trappings of 20th-century life. The 21st century? Yeah, the pyramids. What do we have now? A pretty little town with a tremendous range of architecture and immensely valuable heritage, an absolute must for anyone interested in Bosnia’s long history.
TRANSPORT
© John Bills
Visoko has a large dilapidated bus station (Bosne Srebrene, +387 32 735 830) that is easy to find and even easier to navigate. The ticket office inside is long dead, and you now buy your way from the friendly folks in the kiosk on the platform. The bus station has toilets of the squatting variety and a timetable that isn’t entirely outdated. The train station (Kadije Uvejsa) is a short walk from the bus station, a route that passes by the Franciscan Monastery. Visoko is well-connected, with daily buses to Sarajevo, Kakanj, Travnik, Jajce, Banja Luka, Bihać and more.
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
© Digihelion // Shutterstock.com
Pyramids
I’m lumping the entire pyramid complex here in one entry, but that doesn’t mean I’m a cynic. Quite the opposite; I’m all in favour of this particular scheme. You might think these are simple hills, but Semir Osmanagić says otherwise. Since 2005, the Zenica-born businessman has championed the cause of these being the most enormous human-made pyramids on the planet, and those claims have given birth to an entire tourist complex in these parts. Go take a look, and make your own mind up. Ulica Ravne 1 (it is the massive hill that looks like a pyramid, +387 33 259 935
© Aleksandar Todorovic // Shutterstock.com
Park Ravne 2 and Ravne Tunnels
Wait, what happened to Park Ravne 1? The Ravne tunnels are fascinating, and the parks are delightful, although maybe more for the scenery than the Without labouring on the matter, these tunnels are arguably more interesting than the pyramids. The vast network contains all manner of curiosities, including stones that transmit energy, albeit not to this writer. There is plenty of discussion about legitimacy, but save that for the post-Ravne coffee. Embrace it, and you never know what you might experience. +387 33 259 935
© WikiMedia Commons
Visoki Fortress
One major negative about all the pyramid hoopla is that Visoko’s genuinely interesting historic heritage now gets overlooked. Case in point; the Visoki Fortress, a 14th-century medieval castle that was extremely important for the Bosnian Kingdom. Many vital documents and charters were signed here, and a young Tvrtko was particularly fond of the place. It has been abandoned since the 16th century, but its place in history is assured.
© John Bills
Native Museum
Visoko’s city museum is one of the better ones in the country, aided no end by the town’s long and storied history. That history is laid bare here, exploring the life and times of Visoko’s people through an excellent array of exhibitions, artefacts and documents. The collection of traditional musical instruments is fabulous. The museum building is also an attraction, an elegant structure that looks even more gorgeous next to the relatively simple old cinema. Alije Izetbegovića 29, +387 32 736 267, closed Sundays.
© John Bills
Franciscan Monastery of St Bonaventure
Central Bosnia is packed with medieval monasteries from the Bosna Srebrena era, and Visoko’s contribution to the collection is fantastic. The monastery was constructed by the Franciscans in the late 13th century and still functions today; it is easy to overlook that the Franciscan Order in BiH is the country’s longest-running institution. Visoko’s monastery has a small museum that isn’t entirely on the level of those in Kraljeva Sutjeska and Fojnica but is definitely worth a look and also acts as a cultural centre of sorts. You can’t miss this place, as it is on the side of the road close to the bus station. Mehmeda Skopljaka, +387 32 738 277
© John Bills
Tabhanska Mosque
A gorgeous little mosque in the centre of town, Visoko’s Tabhanska Mosque is on the outskirts of the old čaršija and takes its name from the tannery it cuddled up with. The mosque was paid for by the tanners, although the original is long lost to the annals of time. Tanners are hardy folks, and this beautiful mosque has been rebuilt repeatedly, its wooden minaret painstakingly restored, come what may. A small garden adds to the serenity. Tabhanska
© John Bills
Šerefudin’s White Mosque
It is unique, that’s for sure. Šerefudin’s White Mosque has won plenty of plaudits for its daring yet geometrically simple plan. Heck, it even won the Aga Khan Award for Architecture in 1983, the first indication that the work of architect Zlatko Ugljen and craftsman Ismet Imamović is older than it looks. Okay, not entirely, but this 1980 construction was built on the site of a 15th-century mosque and uses the traditional Bosnian mosque layout but turned on its head, with sloping concrete walls and unique glass panels that flood the interior with light. Take a look inside if you can. Bijela Džamija, +387 33 289 700
© John Bills
St Procopius Church
If Visoko’s historical heritage has been forgotten under the pyramid avalanche, the Orthodox Church of St Procopius is covered in dust and fighting off moths in the attic. That is a shame, for all the obvious reasons, and this peaceful church on the outskirts of town (at the beginning of the road to the pyramids, funnily enough) remains an image of elegance at the foot of Visočica Hill. Nobody knows how long a church has been here as all records were destroyed in a 1941 fire, but its current iteration dates to the late 19th century with plenty of renovations along the way, with interior frescoes added in the 1950s. The church houses an impressive collection of icons, among them some of the oldest in the country, but they were damaged while hidden during the war. Podklisa 4
© John Bills
Liješeva Clay Pottery
Clay pottery used to be a big deal in these parts, but modern technology and capitalist vultures have decimated the art. Vahid Ohran’s work is all the more critical, and the maestro continues to sculpt gorgeous pottery today, utilising techniques passed down from generation to generation. He lives and works in a small village called Liješeva and is best visited with Sarajevo-based Funky Tours; you might even get to meet the family and have a delicious lunch.
BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES
The view from Restoran Most © John Bills
Visoko has loads of great cafes, many of which sit along the river and make the most of their locations with terraces. Ljetna Bašta Bosna (Alije Izetbegovića 1) is next to the bus station bridge, and Restoran Most (Alije Izetbegovića 1, +387 61 058 669) is underneath, serving Bosnian classics below and decent coffee above. The best coffee in town is at Cafe Ime (Zanatski Centar, +387 62 868 688), specialty coffee no less, so look past the non-descript decor and settle in for a fabulous espresso. Visoko isn’t great on the beer front, but you can get a bottle or two at Cafe Hammer (Matrakčijina), complete with pleasant outdoor seating next to the museum. If you demand franchises, there is a Caribou Coffee in town.
SLEEPING
Despite the increase in tourism that the pyramids have brought, Visoko remains utterly wretched on the accommodation front. You’d think otherwise, but you’d be hella wrong. Maybe it is the town’s relative closeness to Sarajevo, or perhaps something is in the water that stops Visoko’s hotels, motels and apartments from shining, but something is wrong. I’m not going to suggest somewhere for the sake of it. Here’s hoping the situation improves sooner rather than later. For now, jump on a bus to Sarajevo or Kakanj for your sleep.
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