ŽEPČE city guide — John W Bills

While I will never forgive the town for having its bus station on the opposite side of town to the train station (more on that shortly), Žepče is a pleasant little place smack-bang in the middle of the road between Doboj and Zenica. That isn’t an exaggeration of a pleasant turn of phrase either; it is literally smack-bang in the middle of that road: 25 miles north of Zenica and 25 south of Doboj. The River Bosna flows through town, and water plays a significant role in its importance. Supposedly, there are 14 mineral springs near or within Žepče itself. The first mention of Žepče comes back in 1458 in a charter by Stjepan Tomašević, and October 14 is celebrated as Žepče Day still. There’s not a whole lot to add, as the usual flourishes are met. Today, Žepče is a small town with some charming churches, a fascinating Jewish graveyard, a cafe called The Best that is actually the best in town, and more.

TRANSPORT

Zenica-Doboj canton, you were doing so well! Unfortunately, Žepče’s train (Željeznička, +387 32 880 811) and bus stations (Bukovik, +387 32 882 356) are not next door to each other. They aren’t even close to each other. In fact, they are on complete opposite sides of town, which is not ideal if you are getting into one and heading out of the other. The train station is a building next to the tracks, which sounds simplistic, but there aren’t really any facilities of note. You’ll probably buy your ticket on the train, which is fine. The bus station has a waiting room and ticket office to go with its platforms, although there is nothing in the way of snacks and wifi. To my utter shame, I didn’t look if there was a toilet. If you use these guides for the bus station comments, I’m very sorry. There is a train every day to Sarajevo and another to Maglaj. Buses to Zenica are relatively frequent throughout the day, and there are also connections to Sarajevo and Maglaj. Žepče is just down the road from Zenica, so most buses heading north from ol’ Zenny will stop here in some form.

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

Church of St Anthony of Padua

It is easy to imagine that from the moment the foundation stone was placed here in 2000, the Church of St. Anthony of Padua was the focus of Catholic life in Žepče. It sure dominates the skyline today, its orange-tinged walls standing high above the town's roofs. As with many churches of the Catholic faith, the door is the highlight, intricately detailed with even the church itself featured. Check out the handle if you get the chance. Stjepana Radića, +387 32 881 725

Central Mosque

Žepče’s Central Mosque eschews tradition in favour of half-tradition, not unlike the mosque found in Živinice, its alphabetical brethren. While not as big as that one, the mosque in Žepče has two minarets and a red trim, and that’s about as exciting as it gets. The building next door is fascinating, following the colours of the mosque but in a decidedly 20th-century shop style. I don’t know enough about architecture to comment, but these sorts of buildings are seen relatively often in the northeast of the country. Sarajevska, +387 32 881 282

Tržanska Mosque

Žepče’s oldest mosque is a beauty, a domed stunner with centuries of history and an almost inevitable journey of tumult and triumph behind it. Also called Alibey’s Mosque, it was probably constructed in the 17th century, although there isn’t a heap of information about its origins. We do know that Eugene of Savoy destroyed it in his 1697 path of violence, an event that comes up way too often for anyone’s liking. It took a while for renovations to come, which they did in 1900, allowing the mosque to stand for 93 years until another destruction in 1993. Fast forward to 2017, and we have the mosque we know and love today. Stjepana Tomaševića bb, +387 32 881 282

Cultural Centre

I don’t have much information about Žepče’s cultural centre, but the place is beautiful, so it's getting a mention. Bone white with red flourishes, the centre takes pride of place in the heart of town and has a busy schedule of events covering everything from theatre shows to discussions and beyond. The date of Žepče’s first mention is honoured on its walls, and there is a monument of a stone ball out in front. Why? Because this canton is obsessed with massive stone balls, that’s why. Prva, +387 32 880 462

World War II Monument

Located across the road from the bus station, this sombre ossuary and monument holds the remains of 35 Partisans and many Žepče civilians, lives lost in the fight against fascism. The memorial touches on many familiar motifs, with open elements blending effortlessly with images of the sun, while two hands are engraved on the rectangular slab that frames it all.

Jewish Graveyard

Full disclosure, I haven’t been able to make it to the Jewish Graveyard in Žepče yet. That is my fault, of course. Initially, I wasn’t aware of its existence. The last time I was in town, I was with a backpack, and it is a walk outside of town, and I’m a lazier man than I’d like to admit. Anyway, my laziness has nothing to do with the fascinating history of Žepče’s Jewish community. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, Jewish people moved here from Bosnia’s bigger cities because of prejudice and poor treatment and soon settled into Žepče life, working and participating in the different cultural societies of the time. This cemetery was set up in 1890, a synagogue was constructed in 1910, and all was well. World War II brought nothing but horror, and only a handful of Žepče’s Jews survived the concentration camps of Jasenovac and Stara Gradiška. The cemetery remains, just off the main road close to the train station.

BREWS, BOOZE AND BITES

Tomato! Despite the wacky name, Tomato (Sarajevska, +387 63 467 620) is a charming little restaurant handily placed next to a wine shop, if you are of the oenophile type. Also, and it pains me to write this, but there is a bar and cafe nearby called The Best (Kralja Stjepana Tomaševića). I am loathe to recommend places with such blatant SEO-inspired names, but yeah, the coffee was good, and the setting is pleasant.

SLEEPING

Well, this is a bugger. Pretty much the only option in town, Hotel IN (Ravne Donje, +387 63 772 375) is more than decent, with good facilities, a solid restaurant and friendly staff. The only problem is that the “in town” of the opening sentence isn’t exactly accurate, as Hotel IN is a couple of kilometres outside of town on the side of the road. A main road, too, so you can’t really stroll back and forth in peace. It is what it is.

ŽEPČE